7 Steps To Train Your Reactive Dog In 7 Days + 30 Tips

Your pooch’s the sweetest when it’s only the 2 of you.

But everything changes once they step outside and meet the world.

They’ll be out of control – barking here, lunging there.

So you might feel hopeless.

However, you’re not alone.

You can still have peaceful walks with your reactive dog.

Read on to discover:

7 easy steps to reduce your dog’s reactivity in 7 days.
9 things to remember while walking a leash-reactive dog.
7 smart ways to socialize a reactive dog and 13 tips to keep them calm.
And so much more…

What is a reactive dog?

A reactive dog responds too strongly to a certain trigger.

They tend to overreact to normal situations that other dogs would ignore. And it’ll not be easy to control them once something sets them off.

This can be due to many reasons, such as:

Fear.
Anger.
Stress.
Frustration.
Bad experience.
Lack of socialization.

But in some cases, it may also result from:

Overexcitement.
Lack of self-control.

And you’ll know if your dog’s reactive if they show any of the behaviors below.

13 signs of a reactive dog

Hiding.
Barking.
Lunging.
Yawning.
Cowering.
Lip-licking.
Baring of teeth.
Staring intensely.
Excessive scratching.
Stiffening of the body.
Peeing when approached.
Tucking of tail between legs.
‘Whale eye’ (showing the whites of the eyes).

Why it’s vital to train a reactive dog – 11 dangers & benefits

Training’s vital to a reactive dog as it helps them and their parents lead a quiet, stress-free life. As well as everyone around them.

It offers many benefits. However, it may also result in unwanted behaviors.

This can be a side effect of the first stages of training, which is normal. As well as a lack of positive reinforcement or wrong timing.

And they’re as follows:

Dangers in reactive dog training

Avoidance behavior.
Increased aggression.
Higher stress/anxiety levels.
Reappearing of unwanted behaviors.

Benefits of reactive dog training

Eases anxiety/stress.
Enhances their quality of life.
Makes walks less challenging.
Lowers the risk of aggressiveness.
Allows you to have visitors over with fewer worries.
Helps strengthen bonds between dogs and parents.
Boosts your and your dog’s confidence to take on new situations.

7 steps to train a reactive dog

#1: Find out your dog’s triggers

Before working on your furry friend’s reactive behavior…

You must first know your ‘enemies,’ a.k.a. their triggers.

These are anything that makes your dog act out of control. And they may have 1 or more of these.

In Fido land, the most common reasons are the following:

Vehicles.
Other dogs/animals.
Being restrained by a leash.
Unfamiliar people and dogs.
Specific sounds (e.g., doorbell, phone ringing).
Certain groups (e.g., children, men, people with beards).

A study shows that around 50% of canines are sensitive to noise.

And sudden loud sounds, in particular, usually trigger them, such as:

Gunshots.
Fireworks.
Thunderstorms.

What to do?

Observe your doggo

Watch your Fido closely when they have a reactive episode.

What do they usually do?

And where is their behavior directed?

List and analyze

Whenever they become reactive, note down the following details:

Time.
Date.
Weather.
Your dog’s actions.
Things you saw or heard.
Events that happened at that time.

Also, answer the following questions:

Is a certain situation triggering them?
Are there specific places where your dog behaves worse?

Once you’re done, study what you’ve observed so far.

Look for any similarities in those reactive moments.

Say, the usual time your dog does it or the things present when it happens.

Note: You may also record a video of your Fido while they’re out of control. Doing this will let you see any factors you might have missed while observing.

#2: Be familiar with ‘dog speak’

It’s easy to identify some triggers, like:

Strangers.
Unusual objects.
Loud/rare noises.

You won’t usually find these around your pooch.

So when these appear, you’ll know immediately.

However, other triggers are confusing.

Thus, you might mistake the real reason for something else.

For example, being on a leash makes some dogs reactive.

But since they also wear it outside when meeting other people or Fidos…

You may think that seeing strangers and unknown dogs is the root of the behavior.

One more thing.

Researchers found that household noises can make some dogs nervous.

These sounds are common in every household. Also, they aren’t as loud as sirens and fireworks.

So, most of the 386 dog parents in the study weren’t aware that the noises stressed out their furry pals.

Experts say that being fluent in doggy language could’ve prevented it.

Thus, besides observing your Fido…

You only need to learn how dogs communicate with their bodies.

What to do?

Pay close attention to each of your dog’s body parts.

Their appearance or position will change depending on their emotion.

And here’s a guide to the important points you must spot:

Body part/s	Stressed/scared	Happy/relaxed
Ears	Stiff.Flattened.	In a neutral position – held high or floppy.
Eyes	Dilated pupils.Blinking rapidly.Avoiding eye contact.‘Whale eye’ or side-eyeing.	Squinting or closed partially.
Mouth	Closed.Lifted upper lip.	Slightly open.
Tail	Low and tucked between legs.High and wags rapidly to the left.	Moves to the right.Slightly raised or in its natural position.
Breathing	Panting at rest.	Breathing normally at 10-30 times per minute.

Learn more: 15 Scientific Facts About Your Dog’s Body Language

#3: Know your dog’s threshold

Every reactive Fido has their limit.

It’s the point where a trigger causes them to be uncontrollable.

They’ll be so focused on it that they’ll ignore everything else around them – even their humans.

But to change this response…

You must slowly expose your dog to their trigger.

However, they should be in a state where they’re aware of it but not freaking out.

Referring to the table above, you’ll know if your dog’s stressed if you observe the following:

Tucked tail.
Side-eyeing.
Dilated pupils.
Flattened ears.
Stiff body posture.
Excessive panting.

An anxious dog won’t listen to you and be able to control their actions.

Thus, to keep your furry friend calm during training…

You should know when they’re about to reach their ‘reactive zone.’

So you can act fast and prevent it from happening.

“How to know if my dog’s near their threshold?”

Their reaction will change as the level of exposure increases.

And I divided these into 3 zones:

Neutral zone

Accepts treats.
Doesn’t tug the leash.
Sniffs freely on the ground.
Follows commands immediately.

Alert zone

Looks at the trigger.
Doesn’t sniff anymore.
Has ears pointed forward.
Doesn’t listen easily to cues.

Reactive zone

Snaps or nips.
Barks or growls.
Has a tense body.
Strains on the leash.
Doesn’t respond to commands.
Isn’t interested in treats or toys.

Also, some dogs may display these signs of stress:

Pacing.
Cowering.
Trembling.
Frequent yawning.
Excessive lip-smacking.

These are ‘calming signals’ in the doggy world.

Our 4-legged friends use them to:

Ease their anxiety.
Tell others they’re no threat.
Show they’re stressed/nervous.

So these will also tell you if your Fido’s close to their ‘reactive zone.’

Thus, take note of the intensity or distance between the trigger and your dog when they show any of the signs above.

“What do you mean?”

Let’s say vacuum cleaners set your Fido off.

Do they react upon seeing or hearing it?
If it’s the latter, how loud is the vacuum cleaner before they respond to it?
If it’s the former, how far is the machine whenever they display the signals?

Then when your dog starts being reactive…

Act fast and remove the trigger asap

Do this so you can continue the training.

Because if you do nothing and your dog’s emotions escalate…

They’ll go above their threshold and show the signs listed earlier, such as excessive:

Barking.
Lunging.
Snarling.
Growling.

You might also like: 27 Dog Calming Signals + What To Do When You See Them

#4: Train your Fido to focus on you

Some dog parents might skip this step.

They’ll go straight to the other tips below.

But it’ll only make training even longer.

“Why’s that?”

During a reactive episode, your doggo’s world will revolve only around the trigger.

They’ll go crazy if they hear a zooming car. Or if they see a tiny squirrel lurking around.

They can act like you’re not with them. And they won’t be able to control themself too.

Thus, if you don’t work on your dog’s focus and connection with you…

Training them will be hard, to begin with.

How to make your dog focus on you

Get some treats and a clicker (if you prefer to use this in training).
Bring your dog to a quiet part of your house.
Say their name followed by a cue, like “watch me” or “look.”
If your Fido looks at you, praise them immediately.
Press the clicker and give them a treat.
If your dog doesn’t pay attention to you, wave the treat near their nose.
Slowly move it towards your face.
Once they look at you, praise and click.
Give them the treat as a reward.

Do this 2-3 times daily for 10-15 minutes per session. Repeat until your dog looks at you automatically for a treat.

Also, in the 1st few days, train your pooch in a place away from distractions.

Then as their focus gets better, do it in a busier spot or noisier time.

For instance, move from an enclosed room to an open living area. Or, train them when there are more traffic and noise at your home.

Trivia: Studies prove that smiling faces attract more dogs than frowning ones. Experts say their emotional state improved when they looked at happy humans. So while you’re getting your pooch to focus on you, don’t forget to smile too. 🙂

#5: Slowly get them used to their trigger

Over the years, your dog learned to be afraid or get worked up around their triggers.

Thus, the goal here’s to change that attitude.

For example, you must alter this mindset:

“What a scary thing (vacuum cleaner)! It’s loud, and it’s running toward me!”

“Help! I don’t know what those booming sounds (fireworks) are. They’re everywhere and I can’t seem to escape!”

To this kind of reaction:

“It’s alright. I learned that it (the trigger) wouldn’t hurt me. Plus, something good happens when it appears.”

Now, how will you do this?

Meet these 2 training techniques:

Desensitization.
Counterconditioning.

Vets say these always come hand in hand.

So you must apply them simultaneously to see results in 7 days.

But let’s tackle the former first so you can begin the training.

“What is desensitization?”

This is slowly getting your dog used to their trigger.

Starting at the lowest intensity of exposure. Then increasing it gradually until it doesn’t bother them anymore.

But take baby steps here. This is to avoid making your Fido more fearful or hyped.

What to do?

Bring your Fido to the quietest area of your house. Or any part where they feel most comfortable.
Expose them to their trigger.
Start at a ‘neutral zone’ or extremely low level. (E.g., lowest volume, farthest comfortable distance).

This means your dog’s aware of the trigger.

However, it’s too silent or far from them. So it doesn’t put them near or over their threshold – not scared or excited.

Let me give you some examples.

If your furry friend’s trigger is/are…

Certain sound

Record or find an audio of it on the Internet.
Play it at the lowest audible volume possible.
Set the speakers far enough from your dog – at a distance where they don’t react to the sound.

Person/animal/object

Put your dog and the trigger in the same area.
Make them wear a leash if you bring them outdoors.
Place them at a distance greater than your Fido’s threshold.
If it’s a person/animal, ask them to stand still and stay quiet.
If it’s an object that creates sounds, hold it so it doesn’t make any. Or never turn it on if it’s an appliance.

For example, if your dog reacts to the trigger when they’re 15 ft (4.6 m) apart, begin at a longer distance.

Say at least 20 ft (6 m) or more, as long as your pooch doesn’t show signs of stress or fear.

“What if the trigger’s another dog or animal?”

Ensure that your helper Fido has calm behavior.

You may ask a close friend or relative with an even-tempered pet to assist you. Then follow the steps above.

Note: Never start if your dog seems scared or excited – even a bit. Adjust the level of exposure if needed. As you may reinforce their reactive behavior with the next step.

#6: Pair the trigger with good things

After exposing your Fido to their trigger at the lowest intensity…

You must teach them that good things only appear when the trigger’s around.

Then once it’s gone, the fun stops too.

And here’s when counterconditioning comes in.

“What is counterconditioning?”

This is associating your dog’s trigger with something positive.

It can be anything below:

Treats.
Praises.
Attention.
Favorite toys.
Petting (e.g., chest or belly rubs).

Most Fidos love food more than anything else. Meanwhile, others may prefer toys, such as tennis balls, over kibbles.

But can you believe that dogs in 1 study prefer getting praise from their parents more than treats?

Thus, no dog’s the same.

So, find out what your furry friend likes most.

Then use it to create a positive association with whatever they currently fear.

How to counter condition a reactive dog

Once your Fido senses the trigger and stays calm:

Offer them small treats or let them play with their favorite toy.
Do this for at least 5-10 seconds.
Remove the trigger.
Stop feeding or playing with your dog.
Bring back the trigger.
Repeat.

Keep doing this until your dog looks at you whenever the trigger appears.

It means they’re expecting a goodie from you.

And your doggo now associates the trigger with something pleasant.

From “Oh, it’s scary!” to “Hurray! It’s snack/play time. Where’s my treat/toy?”

Now, if your Fido’s food-motivated…

Use ‘high-value treats’

These are delicious snacks your dog rarely gets.

Remember, you have a reactive pooch who has trouble focusing on you.

So you must offer something irresistible to lure them.

But since you’ll be using these every training…

Go for yummy but healthy treats, such as:

Cooked pumpkin flesh.
Plain, boiled chicken strips.
Unsweetened peanut butter.

Note: Give your dog small amounts of treats each session. As per vets, snacks shouldn’t exceed 10% of their daily food intake. Plus, anything eaten in large amounts may upset their tummy as well.

Thus, never give in to your dog’s constant begging and sparkly puppy eyes.

#7: Gradually raise the level of exposure

If your reactive Fido looks at you instead of the trigger and they’re calm around it…

Slightly increase the intensity.

How?

It’ll depend on your dog’s trigger.

So you may do anything below that seems appropriate for your situation.

But remember, start with the least to most likely scenario that’ll cause your Fido to react.

Trigger #1: Sounds

Raise the volume by 1 level.
Increase their listening time.
Lessen the distance between your dog and the speakers – at least 1 ft (0.30 m) at a time.

Trigger #2: Specific person/group of people

Lead your dog a bit closer to the trigger/s.
Ask the person to move slightly but keep the distance (e.g., walk in place, swing an arm).
Increase the number of people or ‘threatening’ qualities. (e.g., add 1 more kid, bring a taller person, make them wear a hat or beard).

Trigger #3: Dog/animal

Walk your dog nearer to the trigger.
Make them meet in a closer and different setup.
Take your Fido from areas without animals to crowded ones if they made progress.

Trigger #4: Object

Bring it closer to your dog.
Shake or hold it in a way it creates sounds.
If it’s a device, turn it on. Then use and move it slowly around your Fido.

Now, after making any of these changes:

Praise your dog.
Keep feeding or playing with them.
Remove the trigger.
Bring it back in.
Gradually increase the intensity again.
If your dog still expects a reward and is calm, raise it slightly.
If no, go back a step – until your Fido returns to a relaxed state.

And repeat until your dog doesn’t react around the trigger.

Also, keep in mind that you can only…

Change 1 factor at a time

This is to avoid overwhelming your Fido. Which will put all your efforts in vain.

For example, if your furry friend reacts to the vacuum cleaner’s noise and movements…

Get them used to its sounds first:

Play vacuum cleaner sounds at the lowest intensity.
Offer a treat or toy.
If your dog doesn’t react, slightly boost the volume.
Gradually increase it and keep rewarding your Fido if they’re calm.
Stop playing the audio.
End the feeding or playing time.
Repeat.

Next session:

Bring in an actual vacuum cleaner in the same room as your dog.
Put it far enough from your Fido to avoid them from getting worked up.
Give them treats if they look at it.
Remove the trigger.
Stop rewarding your dog.
Get the vacuum cleaner again.
Ask someone to move it in place.
Feed or play with your dog once they see the vacuum cleaner.
Tell your helper to turn it on and use it around the room.
Keep rewarding your Fido while it’s moving and making noises.
Turn off and remove the vacuum cleaner.
Stop offering your dog treats or toys.
Bring back the vacuum cleaner again.
Repeat and move the trigger closer as you reward your dog.

Note: Ensure you put your furry pal on a leash during training. If you’re having trouble walking your dog in it, check out the tips I’ll share later.

Tips to socialize a reactive dog

#1: Take things slow

I know you’re eager to change this behavior of your Fido.

(And I’m rooting for you!)

But remember, good things take time – even in training.

So don’t rush the process if you want long-lasting results.

Socialize your doggo at their pace. And never force an interaction.

What to do?

Allow your dog to make space for themself.
Let them choose a comfortable distance from their triggers.
Wait for them to approach the other Fido – not the other way around.
Step back once they start getting excited or showing signs of stress (e.g., whining, pacing, folded ears).

Rushing things may lead to a bad experience.

This might ruin 5 or 10 good meetings with other dogs or people.

So you may go back to square 1. Or worse, it’ll be harder or longer for you to train your furry friend.

#2: Set realistic goals

Like us, not every Fido’s the same.

Some of our furry friends may not like interacting much with other dogs or people.

Just like you might not want to greet every person you see outside.

And this is alright.

What to do?

The most realistic goal here is a Fido who can tolerate being around others.

They don’t need to be too friendly.

Instead, they must only be able to stay calm and focus on you during walks. As well as be more willing to take on new situations.

However, if your doggo’s too friendly with strangers…

They might enjoy interacting 1 on 1.

But first, work on their reactive behavior using the 7 steps explained before. As they’ll likely jump on everyone they see due to excitement.

#3: Muzzle train your dog

Instead of seeing Fidos with muzzles as violent and dangerous…

Experts say it’s a sign of a responsible dog parent who keeps the public and their fur baby safe.

So, when do dogs wear muzzles?

And why should your furry friend use 1 when socializing?

Based on vets, dog muzzles can:

Help prevent bite accidents.
Give you peace of mind in public places.
Stop your dog from eating non-food items outside (e.g., rocks, sanitary pads, rabbit poop).

Thus, muzzles are mainly for safety and training.

They’re like masks covering a dog’s snout. And they’re usually used when:

Grooming.
Visiting the vet.
Going to public places.
Handling injured/sick dogs.
Walking a reactive or nervous Fido.

“How long can a dog safely wear a muzzle?”

A dog can safely wear a basket muzzle for up to 60 minutes only.

So don’t leave it on your Fido unattended or overnight.

“Aren’t muzzles cruel?”

Vets say that these aren’t painful as long as you give your dog the right type and fit.

Also, a muzzle won’t be scary to them if you introduce and use it properly.

How to muzzle train your dog?

Step #1: Find the right type and fit

For training, use the ‘basket-type.’

It’s like a cage with holes that covers your furry friend’s snout.

Therefore, they can’t bite anyone while wearing it.

But they can open and close their mouth inside.

So they’re still capable of the following:

Drinking water.
Panting normally.
Taking small treats.

Now, to avoid injuries and ensure their comfort…

Get a muzzle that fits their head’s:

Shape (e.g., long snout, short face).
Size (e.g., small, medium, large, extra large).

How to get muzzle measurements

Grab a tape measure. Then take note of the following sizes of your dog’s snout:

Width: Horizontally, from left to the right side of the widest point of their snout.
Length: From 1 in (2.54 cm) below the middle of their tear ducts to the tip of the nose.
Height: Start at the same point again. With their mouth closed, measure their snout from top to bottom.
Circumference: With the same starting point, wrap the tape measure snugly around their snout with their mouth closed.

Step #2: Pick a quiet place and time

Bring your furry pal to an area without distractions. And train them at non-stressful times.

For example, avoid putting a muzzle on your dog only when visiting a vet or taking a bath.

They might associate the gear with something scary. Which is the opposite of your goal.

Step #3: Prepare yummy rewards

Most dogs care a lot about food.

And studies show that food made dogs less hesitant to try a muzzle on.

So use it to lure them.

Then change how they react to the gear – from negative to positive.

Step #4: Associate the muzzle with a treat

Sit in front of your pooch.
Show them the muzzle. (Don’t put it near them yet.)
While holding it in 1 hand, give your dog some treats.
Hide the muzzle behind your back.
Stop feeding your Fido.
Wait for 5-10 seconds.
Show the muzzle again.
Resume feeding your dog.

Repeat until they expect a treat from you whenever you hide the muzzle.

It means you’re doing it right. And your dog now thinks it means tasty snacks.

Step #5: Get your dog used to its sounds

Hold the muzzle up in front of your dog.
Play with its straps to create noises. (Not too loud to avoid startling your Fido.)
Give them some treats.
Fasten the muzzle while you’re holding it up.
Feed your dog again.
Unlock the muzzle.
Offer treats to your pooch.
Repeat until they get used to the buckle noise.

Note: You may also ask someone to feed your Fido as you fasten and unfasten the muzzle.

Step #6: Let your dog put their snout inside it

Once your pooch’s fine seeing and hearing the muzzle…

They must now inspect it on their own.

But you must do this slowly to avoid scaring your Fido.

Put a treat inside the muzzle (e.g., unsweetened peanut butter).
Show it to your dog.
Slowly hold it near their nose.
Wait for them to come closer and try to lick the yummy stuff inside.
Once they do, slowly put the muzzle around their snout.
Hold it still. Don’t fasten it yet.
Let your dog lick the treat inside.
Praise your dog immediately.

If your Fido doesn’t go closer to the muzzle or steps backward:

Lower it down.
Offer your dog some treats.
Hold the muzzle again.
Wait for your pooch to put their snout inside.
Allow them to get the treats.

Step #7: Make your dog try it on

Show the muzzle to your dog.
Hold it near their nose.
If they put their snout inside it, slowly clip it on them.
Praise and offer them treats right away.
Take it off after 2 seconds.

Repeat these steps 2-3 times daily for at least 1 week.

Over time, extend the time your dog wears it. And slowly reduce the treats you give as well.

Note: Dog muzzles only help in training. Thus, they can’t solve reactivity or any behavioral issues alone.

#4: Train with a friend

This is a great way to introduce your reactive dog to another Fido.

In this method, you’ll set up the situation yourself.

So you’re more confident as you know the personality of the other dog.

What to do?

Find someone with a calm, friendly dog.
Ask if they can come over and help you with the training.
Choose an area outdoors that’s not crowded. So your Fido can only focus on the helper dog – not someone else.

And then, do the following steps:

Ask your friend to wait for you outside – in the chosen spot.
Have a ‘parallel walk.’ Make them stand on the opposite street and direction.
Put a leash and muzzle on your dog.
Grab some treats or toys.
Take your dog outside.
Walk until you see your friend and their pooch.
Put a treat near your dog’s nose once they spot the other Fido.
Feed your furry pal.

Next, ask your friend to hide or walk away with their Fido. And stop feeding your pooch as well.

This teaches them that good things only appear when the other dog’s around.

Then once done:

Tell your friend to return to their previous spot.
Offer snacks to your dog again.
Move 1 ft (0.30 m) closer to the